Wednesday, April 11, 2007

Appealing wine drinkers

The audience that could potentially have the most appeal to wine makers and retailers are those aged 20-30 who could then develop their interest in, and expenditure on, wine for the rest of their lives.

So how does wine manage to appeal to this appealing audience?

This is one of the things I am trying to think about on this site so I was interested to see that it was the main headline of research carried out for Vinexpo (the world's largest wine show in Bordeaux every two years) with young people in the UK, US, Japan, France and Belgium.

(According to my sources - Harpers and OLN) Their recommendations were:
  • provide a younger image - moving wine away from the drink parents enjoy

  • change the perception that it is a drink associated with higher social classes

  • demistify wine

  • provide guidance

Well, I'm not greatly enlightened by this and if this is new thinking for the French, then they are a little behind what is happening elsewhere already.

To be fair, there are a few things that are interesting, but contradictory.

They say, for example, that young people say they are interested in wine because it is seen as "sophisticated", but then they talk about demistifying it and changing its image to something more youthful. A very fine line to walk there. Surely it is better to build upon the existing image and make it relevant, not pop the bubble of wine's mystique?

Also, they mention that young drinkers like traditional packaging (not tetrapack?) but that they also like branded wines that are not too obviously targeted at the young. Agreed! We are all much more sophisticated consumers of marketing messages these days and wine has to fight its corner along with Nike, Coke, Playstation, Nokia, et al.

Finally, they say they find the category confusing, so they want more varietal labelling. This is something I have trouble with as the two are not strictly related. It would be awful if, in their desire to chase this market, retailers chose only varietal wines that conformed to a specific taste profile. Does a varietal label really give more information, or is it just another "brand"?

I think there ought to be a campaign called "Variety, not Varietal!" (maybe there already is?). I think I should deal with this separately in more detail in future.

The thinking still seems to be that individual wineries and retailers can shape this market, but I think that this is unlikely. As I said above, there are a lot of competing demands for the attention of these young adult consumers from brands not just in drinks, but in every moment of their waking life. How is wine to be relevant and interesting to them?

What wine needs is a real, reasonable, fun and fashionable conversation to emerge concerning wine that 20 somethings can participate in, learn from and then use to improve their experience of drinking wine. That will need a much more concerted campaign by everyone involved in wine. Or lots of luck!

2 comments:

Andrew said...

how do the young drink wine - with food? as social thing? parties? in the pub?

This will have more bearing I think than simple 'demistifying'. And is guidance just saying this wine is smooth, slightly sweet, with soft tannins so suitable for solo drinking while this one has heavy tannins and high acidity so needs food?

What is it that makes a wine lover into a wine snob - talk of chateau and vintages and discussion of terrior and harvest dates? Do these have any relevance to the 20-30 year old?

Robert McIntosh said...

Thanks Andrew

I agree that my summary, of the press summary, of the research summary probably does not do justice to the research, ... but it does sound fishy.

None of this helps with getting wine in the glass of a younger drinker.

Wine should not sell itself as alcohol alone (there is enough backlash against that) so it needs to play its strong cards - history, refinement, food matching and variety (not varietal!).

Loving wine means appreciating this. You do not have to bore people with the details, but speak with a common frame of reference. If the only frame of reference is "I bought mine for £2.97 at Asda" then wine does not gain.

IF you can talk about anything else (be it terroir, vintage, varietal, etc.) then you are having a "wine conversation".